RESOURCES
Education and advocacy are key components of every TNR (Trap, Neuter & Release) effort. There are tremendous resources available online to help entrenched and aspiring community cat caregivers alike. Remember that if you are feeding community cats, you must do your part and have them fixed!
Catsanaut Special Sauce knows how hard it is to scrape by in the city trees. She recommends checking out the info / resources below and supporting the cause any way you can. Advocacy is up to all of us!
ADOPTING AND INTRODUCING A NEW CAT OR KITTEN
For those of us involved with cat rescue, kitten adoption season never seems to end. However, there are also many adorable adult cats out there just waiting for a second chance at a comfy life with loving humans. If you are planning to adopt a new furry family member, it is up to YOU as their new forever family to set them up for a smooth and positive integration. Remember, all cats are different. For some cats the integration process could take a few days, while for others it can take months. Slow and steady most often will win in the end and result in a happily ever after scenario for everyone. Considering cats can live for 15+ years, a few days, weeks or months of separation and dedication is NOTHING when you can look forward to enjoying a well-adjusted lifetime together.
Just because you are ready for a fluffy new addition, it does not necessarily mean all of your other fur family members feel the same way. We urge you to PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE take some time to do research before bringing a new pet home. Above all, be PATIENT during the transition process. Some cats are very sensitive, so new people, environments, pets, sounds or smells can all be very scary. Cats are territorial by nature and will each react differently to new surroundings and other cats. We often do not know the history of adult cats, but with some patience they will settle into their new forever home like they own the place!
There are so many amazing cats and kittens out there just waiting to be adopted. Please check out Petfinder, local rescue groups and shelters to see the many fine felines that are available for adoption where you live.
Below are links to a few articles that offer great step-by-step instructions on the proper introduction process for new cats. Remember, a new cat/kitten is a lifetime commitment, so please take this seriously. We can't tell you how many people try to return their newly adopted cat after a week or less because THEY set the poor cats up for failure. We wish you all good luck and thank you so much for considering adoption and saving a life!
WHAT TO DO IF YOU LOST YOUR CAT
Losing a cat is beyond stressful. Indoor cats will rarely go far if they accidentally get out of their house - they're usually just too scared to roam. Please trust us when we tell you from hard learned experience that MOST cats who have never been outside are not going to simply waltz back home on their own. No matter how well you think you know your cat, something happens in their brain (a primal mix of fear and adventure) if they are not accustomed to going outside. After you have looked absolutely everywhere inside, and you are positive they have escaped, we suggest taking the following steps immediately for the best chance of a prompt and happy reunion:
1. Put out a box containing dirty articles of your clothing (socks or a pillowcase) and something that smells like the missing cat, such as their cat bed. If your cat has favorite plush toys, put a few of those outside too.
2. Put out some stinky wet food that your cat loves (sardines or wet foods work best) as well as some dry food. The kitty will probably come home at night and you will want to hear/see them. If you have access to a trail cam or baby monitor set that up ASAP. They will most likely not come back when you are waiting outside for them. Remember, just because you do not see them, it does not mean they are not coming around.
3. Make a flyer with just 3 things. LOST with location at the top. A good PICTURE in the middle. PHONE NUMBER below picture. Post them on utility poles and at intersections. Post them in local vets' offices, shops, under windshield wipers, inside mailboxes.... everywhere. Post a digital flyer all over relevant social media and neighborhood sites (Facebook, Nextdoor, Craig’s List). It never occurs to most people that a cat roaming outdoors may be lost even if they do happen to spot them.
4. Call the local police, vets' offices and animal shelters. Go to the shelters personally to look at the cats. Yours could be there. Hopefully your cat has a microchip which can help get your cat home faster. If you have not microchipped your cat, we strongly advise you to do so. Once your cat has been chipped, please make sure to keep your contact information updated with the microchip registry.
5. Search day and night. (We typically have had better luck at night.) Search with only two or three people – preferably people who know the cat. A lot of strangers or kids making noise can scare the cat into running farther away. Go out armed with a bag of treats, make familiar sounds and take a good flashlight at night. Shine the light around everywhere you can. If you are lucky enough to sweep by them, the light will make the cat's eyes glow unmistakably. Listen carefully for faint meows. Bring a blanket and a carrier with you. You may think that you can just pick your cat up, but often they will fight you, and nothing is worse than losing your cat twice.
6. Have all your neighbors check garages, sheds and under porches. Then ask that they kindly check them often for you. The cat could be hiding three feet from you, but will continue to cower motionless because they are too afraid. If there have been sightings of the cat in another area, ask those neighbors if you can put a humane trap and a trail cam there. You can buy humane traps at most hardware stores, but sometimes your local borough or a friend might have one you can borrow. Chances are VERY good that your cat is close by and hiding. Many cats are often found trapped inside a place that has been locked up after they have entered. Cats have been found in garages, abandoned homes, new buildings, window wells, basements, sheds, etc. Check with nearby people that may feed community cat colonies as well to see if any new arrivals have dropped by.
Your cat could be moving around a little each day, so develop a search pattern and repeat it routinely. Always remember that they are counting on you to get them home safely.
DO NOT GIVE UP. IT CAN BE HOURS, DAYS, WEEKS...EVEN MONTHS.
These are just our suggestions from personal experience. There are also many fantastic resources online with more helpful tips.
WHAT TO DO IF YOU FIND A CAT
Unfortunately, many cats that are owned do not wear collars and are not microchipped. It is almost impossible to tell if a cat is just lost or has been abandoned without taking it to a vet or shelter to be scanned for a microchip. Please DO NOT assume it has a home just because it is friendly. YOU are the only hope that can help get this cat back home safely if it is lost. If this was your cat, you would want someone to do the same for your kitty.
1. PLEASE bring it inside if it is friendly. Be careful not to get bitten or scratched since you know nothing about the cat. If this cat is lost, it will have a difficult time surviving outside, especially in the winter. This is only temporary. All you need is a bathroom, small room, basement, garage, or a crate set up with food, water and a litter box. Try to keep this area away from other pets in your house. DO NOT EVER let the cat loose in your home or expose your own pets to an unknown cat. Try to lure it into a carrier with yummy food (tuna, sardines, chicken). If this does not work, use a humane trap. If you do not have a trap, it is likely that someone you know will have one that you can borrow. The link below offers some helpful tips on how to trap humanely. alleycat.org
2. Take the cat to a vet or shelter ASAP to get scanned for a microchip. Hopefully the cat has a microchip and you can contact the owner and safely return the kitty. If not go to step #3.
3. If the cat is not microchipped, get good pictures and put together a detailed description of the cat and where the cat was found. Then go door to door where you live with a photo of the cat. Most truly lost cats are within a mile of their home. Next, post flyers in your neighborhood and online. There are many regional lost and found groups on Facebook, neighborhood group websites such as Nextdoor, Craigslist listings and other websites that host postings for lost and found pets. Post your photo and description to see if you can find the owner. If you are posting on Craigslist, beware. There are deceptive individuals who may claim ownership of the cat, then use it for bait in dog fights or sell it to an experimental lab for animal testing. Ask the individual for identification (driver’s license), address & proof of ownership (additional pictures of the cat or vet records). See additional information on Tabby Tracker.com
4. If you are not able to temporarily keep the cat, as a last resort please call your local shelter and take the cat there. Just be aware that the cat may be euthanized if it is considered unadoptable (sick or unfriendly). Therefore, when you surrender the cat to a shelter, if you are given the option to reclaim the cat, PLEASE indicate that you will reclaim on the surrender form so the cat will be returned to you if it is considered unadoptable rather than be euthanized.
WHAT TO DO IF YOU FIND A KITTEN
If you are anything like us, you can find cats or kittens in need wherever you go. Depending on their age, kittens often need very specific care in a timely manner. Please check out the most amazing Kitten Lady website and her YouTube channel for everything you will need to know to successfully foster whether it will be your first time, or you have been fostering for years. Please consider opening your heart and home. Fostering is the greatest gift that you can give to an animal in need and there are many online resources to help make fostering a positive experience for both humans and felines.
GUIDE FOR TRAPPING FERAL CATS - TRAP, NEUTER & RELEASE (TNR)
Please understand that the mystical art of TNR has many practitioners, and they each hold to their own trapping rituals with tenacity. Collectively, the CATSA team has accumulated many years of experience in the field, but we will be the first to admit that we are always learning how to improve our practice. This is not meant to be a definitive guide, but it does provide an introduction to those looking to join the cause.
RULE #1: ALWAYS HAVE A PLAN!
If you are planning to trap, it is critical to coordinate appointments to have the cats spayed / neutered in advance. Ideally you would plan to trap the day before and already have clinic appointments lined up for the next day. This helps minimize the amount of time the cats have to stay in the trap after they have been caught; however, it does not always work out this way. If the cat must stay in the trap an extra day or two it will be OK.
Preparing the Trap
First check all traps to make sure they are clean and in proper working order. Traps that have a front and rear door are the easiest to use but a single door will do. Line the bottom of the trap with a folded pee pad or newspaper. Whether you line the bottom with pee pads, newspaper or cardboard, don’t let it extend beyond the opening of the trap door because the door may not shut all the way once the trap is tripped.
If you are lucky to have a trap available several days, or even a week before the actual trapping day, tie the trap door open securely & start putting food just inside the trap. Each day move the food back farther until it is all the way behind the trip plate. Most cats will get used to eating in the trap and it will be much easier to trap them on your designated trap day. The day before trapping, food should be withheld. The cats will be hungry and that makes trapping much easier. A well-fed cat will most likely not go into a trap. Make sure to communicate the importance of withholding food to other community cat caregivers that are in the area where you will be trapping.
Bait
Kentucky Fried Chicken (boneless), tuna or sardines in oil are preferred trapping delicacies. Cats are drawn to food by their sense of smell, not their sense of taste. Separate some of the oil from the sardines and make a trail with the oil from the front entrance of the trap to the trip plate of the trap. You can buy sardines/tuna in oil at grocery stores and at most dollar stores. Mince the sardines/tuna and remainder of the oil into a paste. If you use chicken, break it up into small pieces. You can mix the bait with some of the food you normally feed your cats, so they are familiar with the odor. Sprinkle a small amount of the bait or a few dry treats directly outside the trap, and sprinkle a tiny bit of catnip inside the trap by the food as well. Just be careful not to overload the area around the trap with bait or catnip before the trip plate because we want the cat to have an incentive to make their way back to the trip plate. Place a little bait behind the trip plate on a small paper plate at the very rear of the trap. Just make sure it is against the back of trap so the cat must cross the trip plate to reach it.
Setting the Trap
ALWAYS test the trap first to be sure it works. If your trap has a back door, make sure it is closed and secured. You can also go the extra step and use zip ties or carabiner clips be sure the back door will prevent the cat from escaping.
Pro Tip: You can also position the trap on the ground, on top of a plate so the food is underneath the trap at the very back. (That way you will not have to attempt to get the plate back out of the trap after the cat has been captured.) The trap should be placed on a level surface in an area where the cat feels comfortable.
You can cover the top of the trap with a cut up bed sheet, small blanket or large towel. Leave about 5 inches uncovered in the rear of the trap, so the cat sees/smells the food. Make sure the cover does not interfere with the door mechanisms or latches! To make the trap easier to carry, you can cut a slit in the top of the fabric where the trap handle is. Some people prefer not to cover the trap while trapping. If you choose not to use a cover to trap, just make sure that you cover the trap immediately as soon as it closes. The cover will help to calm the cats down as they will be frantic the second they realize they are trapped.
Traps should NEVER be left unattended.
If you need to leave for any reason, make sure that you shut the trap. You must be present AT ALL TIMES to monitor the trap because it needs to be covered immediately after the cat is trapped. Cats will panic and flail around in the trap and can injure themselves badly if the trap is not completely covered.
After the Cat is Trapped
Always leave the ENTIRE trap covered, once the cat is inside. If you are trapping more than one cat, remove the trapped cat from the area and place it in a secure location, like a garage, shed or in your vehicle so other cats are not distracted or frightened by the trapped cat. Remember to carry the trap by the handle. If you leave the trap in your car, make sure the car is out of the sun and the windows are open - especially if the weather is warm. Never load cats in your trunk or in the open bed of a pickup truck. When the cat reaches its final destination, make sure you have a secure, closed off room so the cat cannot escape in the event they Houdini out of the trap. If you have any doubt about the cat getting out, zip tie the trap doors closed.
If a raccoon, opossum or other animal gets trapped, release them right away. You don’t need to call animal control unless the animal is showing signs of rabies (foaming at the mouth, vicious or erratic behavior). Chances are the animal will be more scared of you than you are of it. Use caution and common sense though!
The Night Before Surgery
Cats can have food and water until midnight. Wet food is best, as it will also help to hydrate them. A trap separator/isolator is highly recommended if you are going to open the trap, to feed a cat or replace soiled newspaper/pee pad. Inserting the separator tool allows you to safely isolate the cat at the far end of the trap & prevents the cat from escaping. If you have a back door on your trap, isolate the cat near the trap door so you can access the trap more easily. Just remember to secure the back door when you are finished. If you insert the separator vertically, keep one hand firmly on it, pressing downward, so the cat doesn’t barge through it.
Transporting
Make sure that you confirm your appointment before you leave the house and you know where you are going.
Before you pick up the trap, always make sure the trap doors are secure! Make sure the cover is on the trap.
When transporting cats, traps must always be totally covered. Carry the trap by the handle. If you need to stack the traps, make sure they are secure. A trap could easily overturn & some traps such as the Trucatch are designed so the trap door will automatically open when the trap is turned upside down.
Never leave cats alone in a hot or cold car. It is best to close the windows to reduce the noise level & turn on the A/C or heat to keep the cat comfortable depending on the time of the year.
Before you place traps in your vehicle, line the seats, floor or trunk where you plan to place the trap with plastic and pee pads, incontinence pads or newspaper to catch any urine or feces that may leak through the trap.
After Surgery
The spay/neuter clinic will call to tell you that your cat is ready to go home. Before you leave the clinic with your cat, make sure the trap doors are secure. Make sure the cover is draped over the entire trap.
Cats must be kept in a secure, temperature controlled and quiet room after surgery. Again, choose a place where they cannot exit if they accidentally escape from the trap. After surgery, a cat’s temperature can decrease, and it can be difficult for them to regulate their body temperature. In cold weather, if you must house a cat in a place with little or no heat, first place cardboard or insulation board on the floor. If you have a wood pallet, you can also place the trap on that to keep it off the ground. Just be sure that the pallet is large enough for the trap to stay level. Add a few quilts or comforters on top of your base and cover the blankets with plastic, then pee pads or newspaper. After you have built up a warm base then you can nestle the trap on top and cover it with a thick quilt or comforter. Make sure there are no drafts and that it is not too cold or too warm.
You can feed the cat a small amount of food when the cat is totally alert. The clinic will line the trap with a pee pad. If the cat soils the pad, you should replace it with a clean pad or newspaper. Remember to use the trap separator to isolate the cat when you open the trap, for any reason!
Releasing the Cat
As long as they are alert, male cats can be released the next morning. Females can be released 24-36 hours later, unless the cat was pregnant, in which case she can be released after 48 hours. If the weather is bitterly cold or it is pouring down rain, it is ideal to wait for the weather to clear before you release the cat. If you see an excessive amount of blood on the incontinence pad, especially from a female cat, call your vet immediately. Do not release the cat.
Always Clean the Trap
After you release the cat, remove all debris, clean, disinfect and dry the trap so it is ready to be used again. If you borrowed a trap, always clean it before returning it.
MORE RESOURCES
Check out Spay USA and find a vet wherever you live. spayusa.org 800-248-SPAY [7729]
Again, this is not meant to be a definitive guide to the fine art of TNR. We strongly encourage you to check out these amazing resources for additional information, tips and tricks:
GENERAL TOTE SHELTER INSTRUCTIONS
1. Once the shelter is placed where your kitties can safely access it, arrange the straw into a snuggly nest. Make sure the doors are not blocked by the straw so that they can enter/escape easily from both of the doors. You can sprinkle some diatomaceous earth (food grade) inside on the straw to help combat fleas. Put the styrofoam lid on the cooler and make sure it is closed tightly before adding and latching the tote lid on top.
2. Make sure it is kept dry inside the shelter. Try your best to keep the shelter protected from the elements. Find a protected area if possible – place the shelter under a porch, in a shed, on a deck, covered with plywood & tarp, etc.
3. Place either 1 cinder block, 5 bricks or something else heavy on top of the shelter. That way the tote shelter will not blow away if the weather gets fierce. They can also tip over if they are not weighted well. (Please, please make sure the tote shelter is weighted and secure, so your kitties are safe!)
4. You can place a tiny bit of catnip inside (just a pinch) or rub on the white cooler door areas to increase their interest in making the shelter their own.
5. DO NOT put blankets, towels or fabric inside the shelter EVER as they can collect moisture and become deadly cold when damp.
6. After a couple of weeks, check to see if you will need to add more straw (NOT HAY). Every season it is best to replace the straw and start fresh.
7. Sleep better knowing you are helping to keep the less fortunate outdoor community kitties warm!
LOW COST SPAY AND NEUTER RESOURCES IN S.W. PENNSYLVANIA
By the simple and kind act of neutering one male and one female cat, YOU can prevent over 2,000 unwanted cats being born in four years, and more than 2 million in 8 years!
SOURCE: SPAY USA
Check out Spay USA and find a vet wherever you live. 800-248-SPAY [7729]
PITTSBURGH:
Humane Animal Rescue, North Side, 412-345-7300 ext. 274, 1101 Western Avenue, Pittsburgh, PA 15233
Humane Animal Rescue, East Side, 412-345-7300 ext. 223, 6926 Hamilton Avenue, Pittsburgh, PA 15208
City of Pittsburgh Spay/Neuter Program: Offers free vouchers, 412-255-2036, 51 ½ 29th St, Pittsburgh, PA 15201
SOUTH:
Bethel Park Animal Clinic, 412-595-7843, 104792 Library Rd., Bethel Park, PA 15102
Fix Ur Cat, 724-416-3265,18 West Pike St., Canonsburg PA 15317
Washington Area Humane Society, 724-222 PETS (7387), 1527 Route 136, Eighty-Four, PA 15330
Fluffy Jean Fund for Felines, Washington County, 724-941-5683 press 1 & ask for Faith
Best Buddies Clinic, 724-547-6421, 809 W. Main St. Mt Pleasant, PA 15666
Catnip Acres, 724-833-0954, 155 Dark Hollow Rd, Waynesburg, PA 15370
EAST:
Spay/Neuter Clinic: Penn Hills, 412-244-1202, 11675 Frankstown Rd, Pittsburgh, PA 15235
Spay It Forward, 724-572-7174, 533 Rugh St., Greensburg, PA 15601
spayitforwardclinic.com/vet-services
Action for Animals, 724-539-2544, 386 Route 217, Latrobe, PA 15650
afashelter.org/low-cost-spay-neuter
NORTH:
Spay Neuter Clinic Pittsburgh, North Hills, 412-213-7353, 3967 William Finn Hwy, Allison Park, PA 15101
SNIPP - Spay Neuter Indiana, PA's Pets, Indiana, 724-349-1145
Frankie's Friends Cat Rescue, 724-889-7011, 740 5th Avenue, New Kensington, PA 15068
Homeless Cat Management Team, 412-321-4060, 207 Allegheny Rd, Tarentum, PA 15084
Animal Friends, 412-847-7004 option 2, 562 Camp Horne Rd, Wexford, PA 15237
Beaver County Humane Society,724-775-5801 x114, 3394 Brodhead Rd, Center Township, PA 15001
beavercountyhumanesociety.org/tnr-and-owned-cat-surgery-prices/
Community Cat Network, 724-712-5418, Butler & West Kittanning, PA 16001
facebook.com/CommunityCatNetwork
Orphans of the Storm, 724-548-4520, Kittanning, PA 16201
orphansofthestorm-pa.org/ourspayprogram
Fixin’ Fayette, 724-600-9570, Fayette County, PA (no web info)
Operation Spay Neuter, 724-287-SPAY (7729), PO Box 1604, Butler, PA 16003
operationspayneuter.com/index.htm
Lawrence County Animal Relief Fund (LC-ARF), 724-510-4952, New Castle, PA
MOBILE CLINIC:
Fix'N Wag'N, MOBILE CLINIC, Western & Central, PA, (travels within a two-hour radius of Pittsburgh)
OHIO:
Angels for Animals, 330-549-1111, 4750 S. Range Rd, Canfield, OH 44406
angelsforanimals.org/spay-neuter
TNR of Warren, 330-330-8166, 2428 Elm Rd NE, Warren OH,44483